Toronto Life
January 2010

Rating 3 1/2

Corey Mintz Restaurant Critic

Taking half a step back from the restaurant’s ceremonious fine dining experience of yore, new owners Carlo Catallo (manager and sommelier) and Victor Barry (chef) have generated a new energy. Thanks to new windows and a sky blue paint job, the room has been revived, and a wall of colourful preserves chases away formality. And yet many beloved Splendido details remain: handbag stools and valet parking, the servers’ friendly professionalism. As a David Lee protégé, Barry is great with the sous-vide method, which works wonders on a moist, glossy Arctic char fillet, complemented by beets and a dollop of thick smoked crème fraîche. Exemplifying the new regime’s simpler intentions, silky pappardelle ribbons are folded with pulled rabbit meat, chanterelles and tangy artichoke hearts—no bells or whistles, just a beautifully balanced dish. Lemon meringue pie presents too many soft textures and not enough richness to balance the tart curd. Mains $21–$38.