National Post
August 22, 2009
Old Is New Again
Splendido Rating 2 1/2
by Gina Mallet
How do you keep a classic alive? Answer: Just keep making it over.
Splendido was opened in 1991 by chef Arpi Magyar, emblematic of the effervescent extravagant entertaining of the pre-crash '80s. I can't remember the decor, but I do recall the buoyant atmosphere, which suggests, in memory, jollification. But in 2001, Magyar sold out to Yannick Bigourdan and chef David Lee, and vanished into the catering biz and consultancy.
In its second incarnation, Splendido was shrunk to a black velvet womb, where you groped for your table to eat Lee's haute Visa cuisine. The service was punctilious: As at Manhattan's Le Bernardin, a little stool was provided for your bag. It was the place to go for that special occasion and expense be damned. I remember a superb dinner celebrating Canadian ingredients. The cost: almost $400 for the tasting menu with paired wines.
But last year Bigourdan and Lee (with Franco Prevedello) opened Nota Bene (a. k. a. Spendido Lite) on Queen at University -- inspired by Mad Men's functional office decor. Lunch at the office with daily specials, simple dishes and half the price of Splendido. An immediate success. The other shoe dropped earlier this year when Splendido was sold to two staffers, general manager Carlo Catallo and sous chef Victor Barry.
Welcome to Splendido Ultra Lite. The new owners have recaptured some of Magyar's joie de vivre: The bar is bright and lively, the dining room embraces contradictions with elan, formal French grey walls adorned with rustic images. The staff is OTT happy to serve you. Catallo runs an efficient ship with great charm. Bread sticks, pepper aioli, olives on the table fast, followed by homemade rye bread and a country loaf.
On my first visit, I encounter Splendido veteran Terri-Ann who bubbles over with enthusiasm. The spirit is infectious.
Foodwise, the first tasting disappoints. I moderately enjoy a ceviche of yellow tail kingfish ($16) bathed in a mildly peppery dressing. Arctic Char cooked sous-vide -- in a plastic bag --($17) is mushy, as is the poached lobster in butter ($37). And so are the slices of the flat iron steak laid out with green garnish. The kitchen's gone flabby.
Ten days later -- how things have changed. We share appetizers, a chicken liver and foie gras pate -- unctuous foie gras given a barnyard tang by the chicken -- with brandied cherries and a toasted brioche ($18), and a large raviolo ($17) stuffed with a rich mix of squash, brown butter, crushed amaretto biscuits, nutmeg, perched on top of pulled pork with a sage brown butter sauce spiked with coriander seeds. Tonight, chef Barry's right on target.
Fish is cooked a point. Pan-fried pickerel fillet is poised atop a melange of fresh vegetables, including new peas,
llllMustn't miss - lllMust go - llGood eats - lSo so
small artichokes and borlotti beans. Roasted halibut is meaty, with agnolotti stuffed with white beans, brown butter, and more veg, borlotti beans, chanterelle mushrooms. We toast them with Pinot Grigio Serenissima ($45), perfect for a hot night.
I often thinkof cheese, but themoment passes. Not here. A board of cheese arrives the moment the plates are cleared. Brilliant. Can't resist Fifth Town's aged goat cheese, an ashy soft cheese from the Loire, and a French triple creme. Accompanied by apricots steeped in imported mustard gas --I'm serious, it's something like that --a winner with the great Roquefort.
Only later do I ask the price--$7 for each slice, enough for two.
Three out of the four desserts ($12) win the sweet tooth award: an enchanting spin on lemon meringue pie, little meringue rosettes surrounding a piece of scented pastry, lemon sorbet and Quebec yogourt. Panna cotta comes with berries and creme fraiche and there's a chocolate/coffee pot de creme with frangelico and hazelnut foam.
Amazing. Splendido does have music but no more than a mild temple throb. This must be why the place is almost full on this Monday night. - Not wheelchair accessible. Dinner: food plus tax, 4 courses $152; 3 courses $137.
